In 2004, I returned again to the Philippines, to finally marry the girl that I had met and courted for years...much to the delight (and relief) of her family and friends. I asked my fiancee to contact a guide on the next island over (Negros) and arrange a birding trip to try for several species of Babbler, that were endemic to that island. We took a Supercat inter island ferry, and arrived in Dumaguate city. This was the largest city in the southern province of Negros Oriental, and we checked into nice 4 star hotel. The atmosphere was even more laid back, than in Cebu (which was hard.... even for me, to fathom), the the cost of being a tourist was very reasonable , and right up my alley. We traveled on our own, to a resort coastal town called "Bais", where we arranged a tour for whale and dolphin watching. We didn't see any whales, but had a fantastic experience with a pod of over 100 Spinner Dolphins following the boat and leaping out of the water...everywhere, much to our delight. I was even able to do some birding at one of the stops, and saw a male Narcissus Flycatcher (a migrant species from the more northern parts of Asia) that came to the edge of one of the coastal mangroves.
Our guide was Rene, and was "the guy" for birding on Negros Oriental. He picked us up from our hotel in the wee hours, and we drove through the still dark streets of Dumaguate, riding shotgun with my fiancee, on a Habal -Habal (a large motorcycle with an over sized seat). The ride was rough (what did I expect ?) , even for RP standards...the dirt road turned into big rocks, and we decided to walk, the last 2 kilometers, while our guide braved the motocross suicide course, with the habal. We had ascended to a high elevation near the base of one of the smaller peaks of Mt. Talinas, that was still below the famous "Cueros de Negros" (the twin horns at the top of Talinas). From there, it was a grueling hike uphill. We passed a very bad tempered Carabao (Water Buffalo) that surprised me, and was tied to a tree that I wanted to make a pass around. I narrowly escaped with my ass intact (Thank God for a short rope). When we arrived (winded) at the last leg of the hike, up to the cloud forest near the summit, we took a needed rest. Rene pointed out an area where the Negros Striped Babbler is often seen, while foraging at an elevation (only at these elevations) of between 1000 and 1400 meters . To reach this area, it was a steep climb, that at times was almost straight up. My future bride and the Rene showed no hesitation...so up I went, right behind. Finally, Rene pointed out an area of overhanging trees , and we heard the calls of the endemic species. Rene strongly motioned us over... to come quickly. Myself, my fiancee, and Rene...witness a pair of these magnificent montaine birds in the act of mating, right on a tree branch in front of us. I was the first foreigner that Rene had brought up there...to witness this, and it was only the second time for Rene...that had been coming to the mountain, since he was a young teenager. Rene was a former hunter of birds (for food and profit), that has turned into a guide and conservationist of birds, and other species native to the area.
I also got a brief look (and heard the wonderful song of) at another of the endemic rarities...a Flame-templed Babbler. On the decent down the mountain, we got a little banged up. I went down the steepest part like an upside down crab (on all fours), slipping many times, in addition to getting hit on the head and cut by a broken branch, bitten all over by ants, and sported some black and blue ankles, from trying to slow myself down and digging in with my hiking boots. Rene had spotted the very bizarre looking Philippine Frogmouth, a nocturnal species , that was trying to blend in was a branch (looking frozen in place...like a part of the branch). We were very relieved to reach a more gradual descent...and wondered.... how the hell Rene could make the grueling hike and climb , in his bare feet. He told us a story, on how he once (for hire) carried a generator up to the cloud forest summit...so that a German lepidopterist could collect moth species (for study).
Rene took us to his home, that was also a sanctuary for the local wildlife, and a rehabilitation center for several species of fruit bat, that he let me hold and see close up. Being licked all over by a (recovering from injury) giant Gold-crowned flying fox...was a humbling experience.
My hat is off ...always, to Rene....who lead us on a great adventure, and that has taken the lead as a conservationist....in a land where conserving it's precious flora and fauna resources, is a relatively new trend (but is finally catching on). We were treated again, to seeing and hearing many species of birds, herps, bats, insects and butterflies. Not to mention...a tremendous view of the southern part of the province, the city and harbor, and three closet islands...from up at our highest view near the summit.
We returned by ferry, to Cebu...in time for our wedding. We were tired and a bit battered, but satisfied from fresh memories of the experiences, we won't forget.
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